Sunday, November 19, 2017

Poinsettia 3D Flower Topped Box

Slice-form petals in two sizes and edge styles circle around
a center riser upon which sits a pleated rosette 
plus two-layer twig snowflake. 
Flower can be used as a topper on
this special pentagon decor box 
or gift container, or . . . 
converted into a large decorative
hanging ornament. Measures approx. 6.75" tall x 
6.75" wide x 1.5" deep.

NOTE: This tutorial will present both projects.
Select and follow those steps that apply
to the ornament or box topper version
you are creating.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A pentagon box base   B accent strips (5)
C pentagon lid   D lid accent shape
E lid accent strips (5)       F riser
G large petals (5 plain bases; 15 perforated)
H small petals (5 plain bases; 20 perforated)
I rosette pleat strips (2) and 2 circle covers
J & K twig snowflake shapes
L snowflake spacer circles (10-12)
M blossom center
N poinsettia ornament base
O poinsettia ornament offset backer
2. Prepare the box BASE by bending back on
all side, tab and flange perforation lines.
3. Position offset accent rectangle panels
within perforations of side walls and glue in place.
4. Prepare the LID in the same manner as
the BASE, bending on perf lines, and
attaching accent shapes, except if you are
adding the poinsettia blossom to the top of
the LID as a topper, DO NOT attach the accent
shape at this point in assembly.
5. Bend the BASE side walls inward to bring 
the straight edge to overlap the opposite tab
and glue the seam. Repeat for the other 4 seams.
6. Repeat step 5 for the LID side walls.
7. Bend the rim flanges for both LID and BASE
inward and glue in place to the backside
of the walls. 
At this point, with accent shapes in place,
the pentagon box is complete. Fit the LID
onto the BASE to close.
8. Prepare the small petal slice-form unit shapes
by bending the 4 petals with perforations 
for one petal unit forward (as valley folds).
There will be 5 total small petals created.
9. Position the first two bent petal shapes with
adjacent halves back-to-back as shown,
and glue the adjoining backsides together,
taking care to line up all corresponding cut edges.
To assist with the alignment, bend the side
extensions back so that the assembly is in stack form,
and adjust if necessary so that all cut edges,
including the center fold lines are precisely aligned.
In this form pressure can be easily applied
for a secure and complete join.

10. Position the 3rd petal unit so that two backside
halves align, then glue in place.
Continue to fold into stack form to check
and adjust, and apply pressure to assist the
gluing process.
11. Position, align and add the 4th petal as
with previous petals.
12. Apply adhesive the petal stack remaining backside
edges, then position over the plain petal base,
align and attach. NOTE that because of the center
joints of the slices and paper thickness, the stack edges 
may be slightly beyond the base edges.
13. Repeat the process for the 5 larger petals,
positioning and joining 3 petals . . . 
. . . then attaching that slice-form assembly
to the plain base shape.
14. Prepare the riser shape by bending back
all walls and tabs as shown.
NOTE that the edge tabs may be easier to
insert into the LID accent slots if left un-bent.
15. Join the 10 seams by bending adjacent wall
segments back to overlap the straight edge
over the adjacent tab, and gluing in place.
16. Position and insert the riser edge tabs
into the LID accent shape slots (for BOX)
-- or -- 
into the ornament BASE (for ORNAMENT),
and push in fully, then . . .
. . . bend tabs outward on the backside,
and glue in place.
17. Position the BOX accent shape over the LID,
center and attach in place.
-- or --
Position the ornament BASE over the
BACKER and attach in place.
18. Position the large petals first, positioning 
point at the pentagon point, and the inward
base centered and abutting at a long riser edge.
Glue in place (hot melt  or quick-grab 
glue recommended).
Position and attach all 5 large petals in this manner.
(NOTE: ornament alignment of large and small
petals units onto the BASE will place tips
at largest outward curves (large) or mid-point
outward curves (small).
19. Position the small petal units by tucking
in between the larger petals, so that the points
are centered along the box edges,
and base ends are abutted at short riser sides.
Position and attach all 5 small petals.
20. Prepare the rosette strips by first bending
the end tabs forward (valley fold) then . . . 
. . . bending at the perforation lines in mountain fold -
valley fold alternating order across the strip.
21. Join the strips into one length by overlapping
straight end over corresponding end tab.
22. Form the strip assembly into a ring and
join the remaining end seam.
23. Compress the pleating into rosette form
by placing shaped edge downward, then
gathering base ends gradually in toward center . . .
. . . until the pleating is flat on surface.
Hold pleating in this shape 
(a extra hand would help) . . .
. . . as hot-melt glue is applied around the center
opening and one of the cover circles is attached.
Immediately apply pressure all around
the pleated circle to force the pleats inward
and help/allow pleats to adjust to regular spacing.
24. Turn the assembly over to repeat the backside 
center circle gluing in place.
25. Position (center) and attach the rosette
onto the riser.
26. Layer the snowflake spacer circles and
glue into a stack. This unit will provide some
spacing and "lift" between the two twig shapes.
Recommended number of shapes is 5-6 each,
depending on the thickness of card stock being
used, and the thickness/spacing desired. 
27. Position and attach one circle spacer assembly
onto the backside of each of the twig snowflake shapes.
28. Position the smaller snowflake (face up for both)
over the larger, with center punch holes aligned . . .
. . . and with arms offset, and glue together.
29. Position and attach snowflake over
rosette unit.
Position and attach the contrast center over
the snowflakes.
NOTE: in the finished model project,
"Mini Prills" beads were also added to the
center circle, and a brad accent was inserted.
Stud accents were added over the large snowflake
end circles.
Here is the completed pentagon with
poinsettia topper project . . .
. . . and the completed ornament.


Christmas Ornament Tree

Evergreen sprigs, berries and two-layer star 
adorn the top of a Christmas variation ornament tree. 
(Purchase Stars Tree Display Stand file separately; 
see Tree Stand tutorial here.)
Attach behind top tree branch (customized top tree 
cross bar included with punch hole for alignment, 
brackets and top hex). 
Decorate the tree using ornaments sized to fit 
(12 to choose, mix or match). 
Add one ornament per day of the 12-day
count-down before Christmas.


Monday, November 13, 2017

Owl 3D Large Standing Figure

Friendly fowl for decor and display is constructed 
of body halves composed of lid and base boxes 
which join at the center wall. 
Tube legs (reinforce with 5/16" wooden) connect 
through body to the feet box. 
Body accents plus wings, feet accent, eye/beak "mask" 
and two-layer eyes give him character. 
Finished size: approx. 10.5" tall x 3.125" deep 
(feet) x 11.125 wide. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A body LID and BASE right side shapes
B right accent body LID shape
C body LID and BASE left side shapes
D left accent body LID shape
E wing front and stack shapes (4 for left & right)
F eye assembly (2 sets)
G mask stack (4-5)
I right LID boxing strips
J right BASE boxing strips
K left BASE boxing strips
L left LID boxing strips
M feet LID and BASE main shapes
N feet accent LID shape
O leg posts
P feet bottom cover (hides post openings)
Q feet "struts" to support box depth
R post "collar" shapes (16) 
to support body height
S body "struts" to support box depth (2 sets)
T body LID top covers left & right
to hide dowel post insertion openings
NOTE SHOWN: wings positioning guide
2. Identify the body left and right
LID and BASE shapes that correspond.
NOTE: though not obvious here, LID shapes on top
are shown face side up, BASE shapes on
bottom are shown face side down.
Also note that the BASE shapes include a cut-in
'B' shape to identify them more easily.
(Since the 'B' can be read equally from face side
and wrong side, you may want to mark an 'X'
or other notation on the wrong sides of BASE
shapes as they are pulled from cutting mat
to also help identify them.)
3. Identify the boxing strips for LEFT & RIGHT
body, both BASE and LID.
LID shapes will have single symbols cut
into tabs; BASE shapes will have double
symbols. NOTE: strips pictured here
were further modified after prototype
was constructed to include body
post openings for top and bottom
for both LID and BASE.
Left boxing strips which are mirrored from
right boxing strips also include the 'L' cut.
4. Prepare the boxing strips (beginning with LEFT
side for assembly shown) by bending back all
top edge tabs and end tabs, also bend back
on vertical perforation lines - then re-bend
in appropriate direction to correspond
to the body shape. NOTE: this bending to match
process is shown for feet shape in step 16.
5. Begin by positioning the long inner edge of strip
at the corresponding edge of body,
overlapping straight edge to strip's perforation
line, and glue in place.
NOTE that the tiny triangle symbol in flange tab
is visible at bottom of image.
Symbols will help identify which ends of strips
should be joined.
6. Continue to bend the strip's segments
into position to align with body edge segments,
one at a time, and glue in place.
NOTE that it will be helpful to invert the assembly
on a flat surface to apply finger pressure along
the tabs being joined to ensure a strong bond.
7. Prepare to join the second body boxing strip
to the first strip's end by identifying the symbols
near each end - a single 'X'. Overlap the straight
end of the strip attached to the body at the
second strip's end tab, and glue in place.
8. Continue to position and attach the remaining
tab segments to corresponding body edges . . . 
. . . until only 1 or 2 segments remain.
Bend the final end tab back (includes the tiny
triangle symbol on the lead boxing edge from
step 5), apply glue to final segment AND end
tab, then position and attach both in the same step.
Complete both left and right LIDS and BASE
assemblies in similar manner.
9. Position and attach the LID front accent
shape onto the completed LID assembly . . . 
. . . noting that the center long straight
edge of accent will be placed at LID center
edge, with equal offset margins at top and bottom.
(Offset of accent edge does not echo LID edges.)
10. Prepare the post collar shapes by stacking
and gluing together 8 shapes into two stacks each, 
taking care to accurately line up edges, 
especially the circular edges.
NOTE: it will be helpful to use a flat weight laid
on top of the glued-up stacks to help press them
flat during the drying process.
(Use of weights to press will also be helpful
when gluing up WING and MASK stacks in
later steps.)
11. Position collar at inside top boxing of BASE,
with open side of collar circle facing the body's
long center side, and with circle edges of each
lined up exactly. NOTE: leg dowel post extension
will eventually need to fit snugly through 
this collar/body hole.
Repeat for both left and right body BASES.
12. Position body LID assemblies together
at center edges, then push circle tabs of left
through the corresponding openings of right,
and glue tabs in place to join.
13. Prepare the body strut supports by bending
back tabs, then sliding the set together at
"center" slots.
14. Position the strut into the BASE tray
at the side, away from the location where
dowel will eventually be inserted, and
glue tabs to inside of BASE.
NOTE that dowel is temporarily inserted
through top and bottom openings
to help gauge where struts should be placed.
15. Prepare to assembly the feet box by
identifying the base with the 'B' cut symbol.
Also prepare the LID main shape by pushing
the post opening wedge tabs through to backside
using a pencil eraser end or similar tool.
16. Prepare the feet boxing strips by bending
back top edge and end tabs, also bending back on all
vertical perforation lines, then re-bending
to match the edge configuration of feet shape.
Note that the tiny square symbols will fall at
the center back, and tiny circles will fall at front.
17. Position and join the feet boxing strips
to feet main LID and BASE shapes in
the same manner as for the body . . . 
. . . adding the second boxing strip
to first at ends, then continuing to join in place . . . 
. . . until the final segment and strip end tabs
are joined in place in same step.
18. Complete the feet BASE in same manner.
19. Position and attach the feet accent shape
to the LID, matching leg post openings exactly.
Accent edges will be irregularly offset
within feet LID edges.
20. Prepare the feet strut strip by bending at
center perforation, bending tabs back.

21. Position and attach in the BASE assemble
in position as shown near center, to support
the box depth near leg post openings.
22. Prepare the leg post shapes by carefully
bending back on the series of long perforation
lines.
23. Form the post into a tube to bring the long
straight edge to overlap the opposite flange tab
perforation line, and glue in place.
NOTE this will be easier to do by wrapping
the post shape around the 5/16" diameter dowel
that will later be cut to length for leg supports . . .
. . . using the dowel inside tube as a "press-against"
surface to securely join the seam.
24. Insert the leg tubes (long tabs end) through
feet LID shape . . . 
. . . then begin to fit the LID over the BASE
so that the leg posts . . . 
. . . can be inserted through BASE openings
also. Then close the feet LID and BASE 
completely . . . 
. . . adjust the posts so that bottom tab perforations
align at BASE edge. Bend tabs back and glue
in place securely.
25. Squeeze adhesive between the LID and BASE
layers intermittently around to help secure.
26. Position and attach the bottom cover
to hide the post holes.
27. Insert the top post end (short tabs) through
corresponding openings in bottom of body LID,
then bend tabs back and glue in place.
NOTE: make sure that the feet assembly is
correctly oriented toward the front of body.
28. Insert the dowel through body top openings
and into leg posts, pushing completely down
so end rests behind feet BASE surface.
Without compressing the top of body,
mark the length of the dowel. Repeat for
each body/leg.
Carefully cut to size, "keeping" the marked
line so that posts will be long enough to be
secured by collar stack build up inside BASEs.
Sand ends as needed so they are smooth.
29. Prepare the mask stack by carefully positioning
and joining each of the 4-5 shapes
into a built-up stack. Use a flat weight to press 
until dry, to help avoid warping or curling 
during drying process. 
30. Prepare the eye units by layering
and centering the three shapes as shown.
31. Position the eye units over the alignment
dash circles on mask and glue in place.
32. Position the mask/eyes assembly onto
the front LID joined assembly, center and adjust,
then securely glue in place.
33. Insert each body BASE into backside
of each LID. Apply glue between LID
and BASE layers as was done for feet assembly.
34. Insert cut dowel lengths into each
post opening at body top, sliding through
to insert into leg posts and completely down,
adding some quick-grab adhesive to
inserted end (if desired and can be done neatly)
and also at top to secure top end within collar stack.
35. Prepare top body covers by bending back
slightly at perforation, then position and attach
at top boxing to hide the post openings.
36. Prepare the wing stacks by layering
the wing face with remaining 3 build up layers,
one by one, taking care to precisely align cut edges.
Use a flat weight to help flatten during glue-up process.
37. Use the wing positioning template shape
aligned over the body's backside to help
determine wing position . . . 
. . . by lightly marking overlapped edge position.
Reverse guide template to mark opposite side,
then remove guide, position and attach wings in place.
Here is the completed standing owl figure.