Friday, February 26, 2016

Knight Chess Horse 3d Box

Dimensional horse "bust" replicates 
a stylized chess game piece with hex base 
that has a removable tray (which makes it a gift box), 
structural "post" and head base around which 
the faceted body and head shaper are attached. 
Details include studded bands at lower body edge, 
flange mane, dimensional ears, flourished muzzle armor, 
under-muzzle hole-punched ring tab 
where chain or cord reins can be attached. 
Measures approx. 7.5" tall x 3.25" deep x 3.875" wide.

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:
A structural post   B  base riser and platform
C base tray       D main body     E head shaper
 F & G side head shapers with contr eye underlays
H & I left and right ears
J head base structure   K ring tab for reins attachment
L structural post bottom stabilizer
M l & r top mane    N back mane (fold-over)
O front body accent band  P back body accent band
Q bridle/nose overlay with center contr accent
2. Prepare the post shape by bending back on
all perforation and tab lines.
3. Form the post into a tube to bring straight side
edge around to overlap the opposite side tab,
and glue in place.
NOTE that the symmetrical shape of the post
allows that it be folded flat to allow finger pressure
along this seam as it is being joined.
4. Prepare the base riser shapes by bending back
on all perforation lines and tabs.
5. Join the two riser shapes by overlapping the
straight side edge over the corresponding
side edge of the opposite shape.
6. Form the riser into a rube to bring the remaining
straight side edge of the larger riser shape to
overlap the opposite tab per line, and join the side seam
7. Fold the top "lid" shape into position and
glue to the top tabs of the riser sections.
8. Fit the post into the base riser top opening,
making sure the narrow end tabs are bending
downward an the side tabs re bending upward
(somewhat different from what is shown here).
9. As the post is being inserted, direct the side tabs
into the post side slots, using a flat tool such as
the spatula shown here.
On the inside, bend the side tabs downward
and glue to the inside of the post.
10. Prepare the base tray by bending back on all
perforation and tabs lines.
11. Join the tray's side seams by bending the side
panels back/up to being the straight side edge
of one seam to overlap the adjacent tab's perf line.
Repeat for all 6 seams on the tray.
12. Prepare the main body shape by bending back
on all perforations, except the top and bottom tabs
or flanges, as shown.
13. To give the body shape, bend and arrange
the 'gusset' seam so that the straight edge
overlaps the adjacent tab, and glue in place.
Repeat for the remaining four seams.
14. Form the body shape into a tube to bring
the long side straight edge to overlap the opposite
long flange tab, adjust, then join.
Also complete the final 'gusset' seam at the
bottom.
15. Position the body form so that the slot BACK panel
is aligned over the shortest post edge
then slide it over the top of the post
and platform assembly, and down completely into
place while at the same time inserting the bottom
front and back tabs into the platform opening . . .
(this will be behind the platform tab which is
bent downward into the platform cavity).
Inside the assembly, assist the body tab as
fully into position as possible, then glue the
tab to the post wall. Complete this for both
front and back tabs.
16. Prepare the post bottom stabilizer shape by
bending the side flanges forward. Apply glue to the
flange back surfaces, then insert into the bottom
of the post . . .
. . . then push into place with the top cut edges
of stabilizer even with post top cut edges,
and 'pinch" along each side to attach.
17. Prepare the main mane shape by bending in
half (mountain fold), and bending side flanges
forward.  Apply adhesive to half of the interior
cut shape portion, then re-fold in half and join
the shapes portions (flange tabs should remain free).
18. The prepared mane shape will be positioned
at the assembly back as shown. Perform a
'dry fit' (without adhesive) to see which portion of the
flanges will attach to the back of the body shape
at the slot opening, then remove the mane.
Apply adhesive to the appropriate lower portion
flange face surface as well as the flange backsides there, 
then re-position and glue in place.
19. Prepare the head base shape by bending
back on all perforations and tab perfs,
except that are 3rd and 5th from the right
in this image, which should bend forward.
20. Position and attach the nostril contrast shapes
behind the cut openings.
21. Begin to form the head shape by bending
the center portion back, side panel inward
so that the side straight edge overlaps the
center tab flange perf line. Glue in place.
Repeat for the opposite side of head.
22. Continue to bend center portion to align
and attach three more tabs and straight
edges along each side of center portion in 
similar fashion to join all but front end segment
and tab.
23. Prepare the optional reins ring tab
by bending back at center perforation,
forward at side tabs, as shown.
Glue the center portion together.
24. Insert the ring tab back-to-front through the
slot on the head front segment, push fully
 into place, and glue tabs to backside of head.
25. Fold the end tab back and glue in place.
26. Locate the two position perforations on the
side of the head, then bend the final front head
segment back to line up the tab perforation
end along these perforations.
Attach both segment side tabs in this way.
27. Bend the back segment into position
and join to back head edges.
28. Apply adhesive to the post top and back angles.
Slide the head over the top of the post as shown,
and push into place so that the head top and back
seat fully against the top and back angle of the post.
NOTE that the top of the mane shape will be on
the outside of the head shape.
Hold in place until glue is secure.
Glue remaining mane, centered, to the head base.
29. Insert the base tray into the bottom of the
assembly (this will be a tight fit).
30. Prepare the ears shapes by bending
on perforation lines as shown.
NOTE that there is a right and left ear shape,
(shown is the right ear), so the left ear
will bend in mirror image.)
31. Bend the inner "triangle" perf lines forward,
then fold the top tab down and attach it at the
top of the opposite panel. Take care that
the top straight edge of the non-tab panel is
fully into the crease of the tab as it is being secured.
32. Bend the remaining side flanges back
over the backside of the ear panels,
and glue in place.
This is the ear unit completed.
NOTE that there are two narrow tabs at front and back.
The blunt cut tab is the front of the ear.
33. Prepare the side head panels by bending
back along perforation lines, including
the very short cross series of perfs.
(See the next illustration for folding direction.)
Fold the perforation lines as mountain fold (front)
and valley folds as shown here.
34. Position and attach the eye contrast shapes
behind the eye opening on front left and right shapes.
35. Prepare the head shaper by bending back on
all perforation lines except the front tip shaped
flange, which fold forward (valley).
NOTE: at the side wedge shapes,
bend and crease ONLY to the head top cross
perforations, and take care not to allow
nearby perforations to tear or to add more crease
that are not marked with perf lines.
36. Position and attach the appropriate l or r
side head to the side tab edges of head shaper
as shown.
Attach the upper segment then the lower segment
as separate operations, re-bending
and adjusting as necessary for accurate seaming.
37. Bend the small upper tab back,
then the forward side head shaper tab back . . .
. . . then bend to position the back edge segments
straight edges (there are two; work with one at a time)
along the adjacent tab perf lines, and attach in place.
38. Insert the appropriate left or right ear tabs
into the coordinating slots at the side top of head.
REMEMBER that the ear front tab is blunt cut.
On the inside of the head structure, bend
the ear tabs back and glue in place.
39. Layer the top mane shapes back to back,
with tabs bend outward slightly, and
glue together, leaving tabs free.
40. Insert the main tab into the head shaper
top slot, then swing the front mane curved tab
into the front slot.
On the inside of structure, bend the tabs back
toward sides of head, and glue in place.
41. Complete the 'gusset' seams sequence
at the bottom sides of the head shaper.
42. Bend the head back panel into position
to underlap the back tabs beneath the
side straight edge, align and attach the two
edge and tab segments one at a time.
Repeat for both head back sides.
43. Slide the head shaper into position
over the head on the post/base assembly,
taking care to allow the back top of mane
to slide into shaper slot.
Head shaper should push down into place
to seat flush with the surfaces of the head base
with the top non-tabbed mane extension to
slide all the way to the shaper top.
44. Apply adhesive to the underside of the shaper's
front shaped tab, also a dab under the side head shaper
pie-shaped segments,
then apply finger pressure to secure these area
to the head base.
45. Prepare the front and back bands by bending back
on to perforations, adding mini brads (or studs)
at the hole punches.
46. Position and attach respective bands 
to front and back.
47. Prepare the bridle flourish by bending at
the intermittent perforations between the
cutouts, as shown.
Position and attach the center accent.
48. Position and attach over the nose area
of the head, with bottom edges along or just above
the shaper edges.
49. Prepare the optional rein by attaching end rings
or  brackets with a large jump ring to the
ring tab at underside of head.
NOTE: this sample project uses a large scale
ball chain with cord ends glued in place.
Other options include leather cord or satin twist cord
with cord ends attached (jewelry notions).
Here is the finished knight steed chess box.
Currently in the collection is a companion
Rook (castle) Chess box, too.