Lantern 3D Hanging for Votive Tea Light

Miniature rectangular lantern is sized to hang 

from the "Flower Wreath Stand"  (view that project HERE).

A modified arm for stand included in the file.

Lantern measures approx. 3.75 wide x 3.75 deep x 7.5" tall 

(including hanging loop). Show-thru "grille" panels hull, 

has reinforced at corners with square posts 

(insert .25" cut-to-size dowel lengths into posts for strength).

Hull fits into bevel-edge base.

Slightly-domed top fits into dimensional rim and connects 

to top of center column and hanging loop. 

Back grille swings open to allow 

access to interior. Inside the lantern, 

an octagonal "candle" column holds a small battery

votive (standard 1" diameter), 

with optional wax-catcher octagon cup underneath. 

ASSEMBLY: 1. Identify and cut the shapes:

A hull (main) wall sections (2)

B wall overlays (6)

C back wall overlays (2)  D latch nib strips (2)

E opt. corner posts (4)

F base shape (NOTE this has been modified)

G base bottom opening cover

H interior platform

I top rim

J top dome (NOTE this has been modified)

K top column   L hanging loop assembly (2 ea of 2)

M front grille window overlay

N side grille window overlay (2)

O back grille overlay with nib slots

P optional modified display post arm, reinforcements

Q candle column    R wax catcher

2. Prepare the base shape by bending back

on all panel, wall and tab perforations.

3. Bend adjacent walls back to perpendicular

position to bring straight side seam edge to

overlap opposite tab to perforation, and glue

lower portion of side seam. 

(Eventually complete for all 4 corners.)

4. Bend bevel wall panels inward to align straight

seam edge at tab perf line, and glue upper seam portion.

Repeat for all 4 corner bevel seams.

5. Prepare the main hull wall sections by bending

back at center vertical perf line, at flanges and

tabs.

6. Join the two wall sections by overlapping

the straight edge of one over the corresponding

side tab perf line, adjust for alignment of

top and bottom of wall panels, and glue seam.

7. Layer pairs of wall overlays and glue together,

taking care that all inner and outer cut edges

are aligned as precisely as possible.

NOTE it may be helpful to press the glued-together

shapes under a flat weight during the glue drying

process in order to prevent curling or warping.

8. Layer and glue together the two back wall

frame overlays similarly, taking care to line up

the nib slots in the lower corners.

9. Prepare the nib strips by bending back at

the center perf cut, and forward at the two

side perf cuts, so that the strip sort of forms

a letter 'M' shape.

10. Glue the center two segments together

to create an inverted 'T' shape. Side segments

should remain free to act as side tabs.

11.Insert the nib tip through the wall overlay

slot from the back side and push in fully

until side tabs rest against back of wall.

Glue tabs in place. Repeat nib on opposite side.

12. Position the two-layer wall overlay on the back

panel of the main hull assembly, matching

inner edges as exactly as possible, and glue in place.

13. Position and attach the other "regular" wall

overlays onto the remaining wall openings

in the same fashion.

14. Prepare the back wall grille  by bending

forward along the top segment perf line

to form a narrow "hinge" flange.

15. Position the back grille over the back

panel so that the grille's slots fit over

the nibs, match the inner frame cut edges

of window opening and the grille frame opening edges,

then  glue the flange in place above the window opening.

NOTE it may be helpful to place a flat weight

along the hinge area to keep it flat while drying.

16. Position the two side grilles over the appropriate

hull panels, with the front circle grille over the

middle panel (which will end up opposite the back

when the hull is completed).

ALTERNATELY you can use 3 lattice grilles

and omit the circle panel. Flatten with weights

while drying, if possible.

17. Form the hull into a tube to overlap the straight

back edge over the opposite flange, and complete

side seam.

18. Fit the hull bottom edge (with long flange)

into the top opening of the base assembly,

and direct the base's side tabs into the corresponding

slots of the hull. NOTE using a thin blade tool

such as a spatula or fingernail file to help ease

the tab lead edges under the slot edge, until . . . 

. . . the hull is inserted fully and flange perforation

crest rests on bottom of base.

19. On the inside of hull, bend the tabs

downward and glue in place to the back inside

of hull walls.

20. Prepare the platform shape by bending back

the side flanges, and also bending downward

the tiny triangle tabs at each inset corner.

21. Apply glue to the inside surfaces

of the hull assembly . . . 

. . . then insert the platform into the hull from top . . .

. . . and gently work the platform downward

until side flanges rest on the base bottom surface.

Apply pressure to the sides to attach in place.

22. Prepare the optional post shapes by bending

back on the long perforation lines between

wall panels and along edge flange.

23. Form the post shape into a tube to overlap

straight edge to long flange perforation line,

and glue in place.

NOTE it may be helpful to use the .25" dowel

as a form to wrap the post shape and help

join the side seam.

(The square post can also be pressed flat

to overlap edge to flange perf line

and complete seam that way.)

24. Measure the lengths of optional .25" dowel

by pushing the dowel end even with tube end

(on the left in this image), then marking 

the opposite edge of the tube position on the dowel.

Use wood saw to cut across (perpendicular).

Cut dowels for 4 posts.

25. Apply glue to the inward two edges as shown in

the image below. Then position a post at 

interior corner of hull, with pair of end tabs toward 

the center, and insert end through the square 

opening at the corner, and push down fully . . . 

. . . until the bottom of post (tabs) rest against

the base bottom surface, and the top of tube

and dowel are even with the top of the hull).

Apply pressure to appropriate areas to

keep post surfaces tight in corner surfaces.

Position and attach remaining 3 posts.

26. Prepare candle column by bending back

on all perforation lines, except the top 7 flange

tabs bend forward/upward.

27. Form the candle column into a tube

to position and join the side seam.

28. Bend the bottom cap into position

and adjust so that tab perf lines line up

with the octagon cap edges, and glue in place.

29. Prepare the wax catcher shape by bending

back at inward perf lines of edge flanges,

also bend forward at wall base perf lines

and side wedge tabs.

30. Bend the wall straight side edge to overlap

adjacent wedge tab to perf line and complete

first side seam. Repeat the positioning to join

the remaining 7 side seams.

31. Bend the outer side flanges (walls) down

and glue in place around outer cup surfaces.

32. Position bottom of candle column into

wax catcher cup, center and glue in place.

33. Insert the candle/cup assembly into hull

interior to center and glue bottom of cup

to platform.

34. Prepare the top rim shape by bending back

on all walls, flanges, and inward opening flanges.

35. Re-bend the window flanges outward/upward

to allow for wall construction.

36. Bend two adjacent walls back to align straight

side edge over tab to perf line and complete seam. 

Complete remaining side seams.

37. Fit the top rim over the tops of hull walls

and fit tabs through slots.

Bend tabs toward center and glue in place.

38. Prepare the top dome shape

by bending back on all perforation lines for

walls, dome sections, lid center triangle tabs.

39. Bend the first two adjacent walls back to

align the bottom segment straight edge

overlapped to opposite tab perf line, and glue seam.

NOTE: the bottom edge tab extensions
visible in these images were designed OUT
of the final version of the dome shape.
Please disregard.
40. Bend top segments back to position

and complete that part of seam.

Complete the two-part seams for remaining corners.

41. Bend top panel (lid) down into position,

adjust and glue edges to flanges beneath.

42. Prepare the hanger loop by bending

bottom tabs outward on front and back shapes.

43. Position the non-tab inner shape over

the inside face of front hanger loop,

work to align inner and outer curved edges

as precisely as possible. Join second

inner shape onto assembly, then . . . 

. . . add back

shape over the assembly, matching edges

as precisely as possible. Use flat weight

to keep flat during drying.

44. Prepare the top column shape by bending

back on all panel and flange tab perf lines.

45. Insert bottom tabs of hanger into roof slot . . . 

. . . then bend tabs back and glue in place

to the underneath surface of roof.

46. Bend panels into position to complete

the four side seams.

47. Insert the bottom end of the column assembly

through the dome top opening and push down

into position until . . . 

. . . tabs are exposed at bottom. 

Bend tabs outward and glue in place.

NOTE: the side tabs that are visible as outlines

in this image have been designed out

of the final file version. Please disregard.

48. On the topside, depress the dome roof slightly

on each side to apply glue on the center column surface

so that it will attach to the dome's opening triangle tabs.

49. Fit dome into top rim recess and

gently work downward until dome is fully down.

Glue in place.

50. Open back grille by unlatching nibs

from slots, position tea light into top

of candle column, then re-close grille

and latch nibs into slots.

Here is the completed lantern.

51. To use with the "Wreath Display Stand",

prepare and replace the original arm

with the shorter arm shapes included

in the lantern file.

This shorter arm will keep the weight center

of the lantern closer in to the post to prevent

undesired tipping.

(This image was taken on the original arm.)